
Our first full day in Prague begins with a visit to Rainbow Services - not Harlow's well-known organisation of the same name, but the Rainbow centre in Prague 15 district. It's an amazing facility, consisting of workshops offering a variety of opportunities for people with learning difficulties.
There's a ceramics workshop, with painted tiles and fridge magnets and - very suitably for this time of year - little pottery nativity scenes, called 'betlems' (for Bethlehem). There's a textiles room, with woven items, printed scarves and t-shirts, and jewellery; and a room for making items from paper and card. There's a laundry, a garden items centre, and of course a kitchen and café. We're introduced to the centre manager, and given a tour of the workshops, with the chance to buy some of the items made on the premises as souvenirs and Christmas gifts; followed by coffee and home-made cakes in the centre café, where we hear from the manager how the centre is funded and staffed.
It's time to make a move, and we head off to see the sporting and leisure facilities that are used by our Harlow young people when they go over to Prague on their exchange visits. There are tennis courts and football pitches, all overlooking glorious woodland, with small wooden huts providing basic accommodation. There's a newly-opened restaurant, where we are treated to lunch.
In the afternoon, the local ecological centre is holding an afternoon event to celebrate Christmas. It's based in some old former farm buildings in the old part of Prague 15, old Hostivař, which is to the rest of Prague 15 a little like Old Harlow is to our new town. We're welcomed to the open-air event with a small glass of traditional hot mead, or honey wine, and a small paper cone of roasted chestnuts. We take a look round the outdoor and indoor stalls, selling beeswax candles and honey, elaborately iced biscuits, lavender pillows, dolls, cushion covers, and all varieties of traditional Czech craftware. We also have a chance to sit in the cafeteria and enjoy a glass of mulled wine and a piece of traditional cake, a little like German
stollen.
At four o'clock there's an air of expectancy built up. An area of the courtyard has been roped off, a crowd has gathered round, and the outer gates to the yard have been shut. From the stage, a lady in traditional Czech costume gives an introduction in Czech, which Marčela kindly translates for us. The gates are opened, and the Christmas pageant begins, with St Martin (who, you may remember, according to legend cut his cloak in half to share with a beggar) riding in on his white horse. He's followed by other figures in the pageant, including St Lucy, St Barbara, St Ambrose - and the devil himself, who rushes round brandishing his fork and hissing at the little children. All these characters have a role to play in the traditional lead-up to a Czech Christmas - and it's a wonderful event. I can't help feeling it would be great for children at schools in Harlow and Hostivař to meet and teach each other about their Christmas customs.
It's been a busy day, so we're grateful for a brief break at our hotel, before getting changed and heading out once again, for the Prague 15 ball. We're greeted by the Mayor and his wife, with whom we exchange gifts, and settle down at Table 9 with Susan, Marčela and George. There's a band on stage to provide the music, and a couple performing a variety of Latin American dancing, before everyone then gets up to dance. Normally at this time in England we'd be settling down as a family to watch
Strictly Come Dancing, a show that has just come to the Czech republic's TV screens - but tonight it's real live dancing. The Mayor asks me to dance, and I manage not to step on his feet too often, while Nick dances with Helen, one of the Prague 15 deputies who toured the Rainbow centre with us this morning.
Not too long after 11 o'clock we decide to head back to our hotel - we need to save some energy for tomorrow, after all. We've seen and learned a lot today, and there are clearly all sorts of future possibilities for links between Harlow and our friends in Prague.